Happy Halloween!

Some of my host siblings: Margarita, Atu, Cassia and Sophia (with a basket of [pounded] mahangu on her head - and some on her hands, too!)

I’m dedicating this blog post to my Namibian colleagues…cuz they are AWESOME! After talking with other volunteers and stopping to reflect on the situation, I realized that I have amazing colleagues. I am so lucky to be where I am. I look forward to going to school each day and my weeks seem to fly by. My colleagues have been so helpful – letting me sit in on their classes; answering my questions about the school, about the Namibian education system and about the Namibian culture in general; introducing me to people in the community and other volunteers; showing me around town; helping me find hikes (rides) back home; introducing me to Namibian food (Oshiwambo chicken most recently); and coaxing me out my sometimes-reserved American shell.

With my brother Frans (and I'm wearing a shitenge btw)

And now, just a few comments on the weather. Lordy, it is hot! Although I must say, I think I’m adjusting. I’ve come to terms with the fact that I will sweat every day (and not from exercising, either). I have a near-constant glow from the heat radiating off my face, and I have more freckles than I ever knew I had! Oh, and I have a farmer’s tan. Yikes, time to break out the sun screen!

My Meme [pron: may-may] Rosa (and she's also the village headwoman!)

My most interesting Namibian experience recently…a parents’ meeting. The meeting was scheduled for 2:00 on a Thursday afternoon but it didn’t actually begin until 3:15 (a perfect example of the flexibility I like to call “Namtime”). The meeting venue: underneath the shade of a big tree just outside the school fence, on chairs borrowed from the grade 1 classroom. Total parent attendance: 22. Quick quiz, how many students are at the school? That’s right: 350. Now, Namibian families are much bigger than American families so let’s say that the average household size is 5 school-aged kids. That would mean that there are (at a minimum) 70 households that send kids to school. Some quick math shows us that only 31% of the households sent a representative to the meeting. I think this may be indicative of the parental involvement in education in Namibia generally. Many colleagues have told me that getting parents involved is one of the biggest challenges they face. And to make things worse, several factors compound the problem of parental involvement in rural areas. First, Namibia is no exception to the worldwide trend: educated people tend to move to the cities, therefore those who are left in the villages are those that may not be able to help their children with schoolwork even if they wanted to. Secondly, because of the strong tradition of extended families and also because of the HIV/AIDS epidemic, many children from rural areas are raised by grandparents who may not understand the value of education. So, in company with teachers worldwide, in urban and rural settings, I face the age old problem of trying to get people (both old and young) to understand the value of education. Wish me luck. . .

And talk about dedication, I’m at school on a SUNDAY. That’s right, a Sunday. I have several very selfish reasons for being here, however, so don’t go thinking I’m an overachiever. Foremost, I needed to charge my cell phone. I’m also enjoying some well-earned all-American solitude. It’s quite nice to have a little TRUE alone time sitting in the “office” (a storage closet lined with shelves and three teachers’ tables) and listening to music and, if I get motivated, working on a year plan for grade 6 English. I have a key for my “office” but not for the school fence, so I simply hiked up my shitenge (a beautifully patterned 2m piece of cloth that I use as a wrap skirt) and hopped the fence. Don’t worry, I’m not completely alone…there are half a dozen goats grazing in the school yard!

And before I forget…Happy Halloween! BOO! (Send me pics of all your sweet costumes, please!)

You've been in Nam too long when...

Well, this concludes week two at site. At first the time went by rather slowly (and sometimes painfully) but lately, things have been flying. I think that’s a good sign – time flies when you’re having fun, right?

Although I’ve had to make quite a few adjustments, I feel like things are falling into place quite well. I’ve already had a few moments that made me think Wow, you’ve been in Nam too long! For example, a few days ago I saw a chicken get its head chopped off and I even helped pluck the feathers, all without really batting an eye. I also look forward to eating oshithima (the mahangu-maize meal porridge) each day. And, yesterday, I willingly took seconds of oshikundu (a drink that is made from ferment mahangu and can be a little bitter). Yes, oh yes, I am enjoying it here…

But that doesn’t mean I don’t sometimes have moments of blue. I must admit, I had my first feelings of homesickness. Now, I knew the moment was coming and I’d been preparing, almost waiting for it. I was just kind of hoping that maybe it would never appear, that maybe I’d somehow become immune to homesickness. I mean, I’ve lived away from home for five years now, I’ve studied abroad, lived with host families, traveled a lot and found myself in many strange and unfamiliar situations…and through all that, I can’t remember the last time I was homesick. But the moment did strike, for about two hours in total. Happily, though, I can report that I quickly returned to my regular sunny disposition. But, hey, I made it 65 days in Africa without questioning the sanity of my decision to come….and I think that’s pretty darn good!

So…what’s on the docket for this weekend you ask? Some much needed baking! Last weekend my stove was hooked up to the gas tank and now I have a fully operational stove/oven (at least I think the oven works – I haven’t used it yet). What’s on the menu? First, some homemade tortillas with peanut butter and Nutella melted on top – a Namibian version of Breton crepes. Next, some fat cakes – a Namibian food, similar to fry bread or fritters. Delicious! Then some type of baked goods to celebrate Halloween (and share with my Namibian colleagues & family). My first choice would be pumpkin chocolate chip cookies, but I’m not sure if I’m going to be able to find pumpkin (and for all you spoiled American bakers out there, when I say pumpkin, I mean pumpkin – like the whole fruit that must be cut and cooked and smushed to make what we normally buy in a can). Sometimes finding good apples in Outapi can be challenging so pumpkin might just be wishful thinking. If there’s no pumpkin to be found, then I’d like to make some caramel corn…if I can find popcorn. If no popcorn can be found, then a classic but delicious fall back: oatmeal cookies. After my baking extravaganza is complete, I think I’m going to make some lentil soup. As much as I enjoy apples and peanut butter for lunch, two weeks of the same is getting rather monotonous.

And sorry I haven’t put any pictures up. I have so many great ones that I want to post but my internet connection is so slow they won’t even load. So…you’ll have to wait about a month til I’m in a place with better network (Namlish for signal).

The Real Africa

Well, this concludes my third full day at the homestead. On Saturday, after a long day of travel (10+ hours) I arrived at my permanent site. Since then, I’ve spent the majority of my time either at school or in the outdoor kitchen.

My daily routine goes something like this: Wake up at 6 to wash, dress, eat breakfast, etc. Then at 7, I leave with the children from the homestead to walk to school. It’s about a kilometer to the school, through the bush on a sandy road. At school I observe a few classes, entertain the students by teaching them a game (Heads Up 7up) or song (the Iggle Wiggle) if a teacher doesn’t show up (proctoring exams, at a meeting, marking papers or absent for some other reason). After the tea(less) break I stay in the office (large supply closet with shelves for books and three tables for three teachers) and work on plowing through the mounds of paperwork and other recreational reading that I’ve received in the past 8 weeks from Peace Corps. At some point during this time, one of my colleagues walks in and we have a chat, attempting to pass the time until 4 when afternoon study concludes and we can all go home. At four, I begin the hike back with the kids, feeling like the Pied Piper because I have a crowd of uniformed students trailing behind.















With my host mom, Julianna, at the Swearing In Ceremony in traditional Damara dress.


At home, I relax in my room for a few moments and then move to the sitting room for oshikundu (traditional drink made of fermented mahangu) with the elder girls. Soon after, we eat the afternoon meal, consisting of rice, pasta or oshithima (mahangu-maize meal porridge) flavored by ketchup and the broth left from cooking the meat. Once the meal is done and the dishes are cleaned (no running water so dishes are done in a basin on the floor), the fire is started for the evening meal. The evening meal is nearly always oshithima, sometimes with a piece of beef. By the time the meal actually begins it is past 8 PM and already dark so the table is lit by a small lantern. Once I’m done eating I head straight for bed because, let’s face it, I’m exhausted. After brushing my teeth (taking my nalgene along for rinse water), I read for a bit or write a letter and finally drift off. Thankfully, I’ve now moved into a room with a window so I’m able to keep it open during the night and it gets cool enough so that I can sleep without sweating excessively and tossing around fitfully.














With my principal, Mrs. Ashipala, at Swearing In, this time wearing a traditional Owambo dress (yes, I am aware of my resemblance to Where's Waldo?!)

I can foresee many challenges ahead (which I may delve into during a later post), but right now I’m simply thankful for the big family that I live with. There are always kids running around and they keep me entertained. I’ve learned so much from them already and, simply said, they make me smile! I hope you enjoy the pictures of some of them! Until next time…

Farewell America

I know what you're thinking: "Farewell America? I thought you left two months ago!"

And, you're right, I did (physically) leave America two months ago. But just because we physically leave somewhere (or someone), it doesn't mean we've necessarily mentally or behaviorally left them behind. With that in mind, on Friday, I will be swearing in as an official U.S. Peace Corps Volunteer and leaving the protective American bubble of pre-service training.

This event will probably be the single biggest change since I got on the plane two months ago. And since I don't have electricity at my home (although I have it at school), I can't be sure how much blogging I'll be doing while I'm there. So, I would like to share some photos with you while I have the chance. I can't take credit for these photos, though; they were all taken by my amazing groups 32 colleagues. Thanks!














Photo: Nice, Western-style block houses (painted a variety of delightful colors)














Photo: Traditional mud hut that is commonly found in the North.















Photo: Fat cakes cooking in an outdoor kitchen. Namlish to American English Translation: Slightly sweetened dough deep frying in a dutch oven. Delicious and filling little treat, easy to make, just not so great on the health front.
















Photo: A baboon. It's quite common to see these mischievous little guys wander around (usually in troops). Just like any other wild animals, however, it is wise to keep your distance.














Photo: A springbok. Antelope/deer-looking creature.













Photo: Wildebeest, with the correct pluralization being wildebeest(s)?













Photo: A giraffe, looking amazingly graceful and elegant as usual.













Photo: An elephant, blending in quite well with its surroundings.














Photo: Part of the Owamboland group (this is only about 1/3 of us!) in Etosha National Park.

Whirlwinds (of two different types)

Home, sweet home! Forty-eight hours ago, I returned from a six day visit to my future permanent site (near Outapi, in northcentral Namibia). What a whirlwind few days it has been. I’ll just share a few highlights of the trip:














Photo: The outdoor kitchen on the homestead. In the background, you see part of the fence that surrounds the entire compound.

THE TRAVELING ITSELF. When you look on the map of Namibia, you might think, “Hmm. Windhoek to Outapi, not far.” WRONG. Including breaks (one each for petrol, bathroom, munchies and two breaks for vehicle transfers) it took nearly 10 hours to make the journey. And I have a feeling this might be near record time. I will definitely be leaving Namibia with a new definition of a “long” roadtrip (I used to think my house to Chicago was a long trip).

ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK. On the way to O-land (side note: there are four provinces in northern Namibia populated predominately by Owambo-speaking people therefore Owamboland), we drove through Etosha National Park. It was my first real safari and it was a-mazing! Words cannot accurately describe how it feels to see a giraffe eating lunch 20 feet away or drive past an elephant chilling just 100 yards from you. Namibia is so blessed to have this kind of amazing wildlife and is doing itself (and the world) such a favor by protecting it!














Photo: Huts on the homestead where mahangu (the staple food) is stored.

MEETING MY FUTURE FAMILY. Although I stayed in Outapi town, I was able to make a trip out to the village, which is about 15 kilometers away (or for you crazy Americans, 9 miles). I will be living on a homestead with an awesomely large and welcoming family, but I’ll have my own bedroom. There are many children living at the house so I’ll have plenty of entertainment and many informal Oshindonga tutors, as well. The most amusing moment of the trip was probably the first thing my meme said to me (through translation) after exchanging the greeting (for more on greetings, see below). It can be paraphrased as follows: We are glad you are here and that you are a girl because you can help pound mahangu (otherwise known as millet) and cook.














Photo: One of the three brick school buildings.

SEEING A DIRT DEVIL. On the ride back from the village, someone mentioned that there was a dirt devil outside so I took a gander out the window…and nearly peed my pants. My next reaction was to attempt to take cover because it looked exactly like a small tornado. You can take the girl out of Wisconsin, but you can’t take the Wisconsin out of the girl.

GOING TO SCHOOL. During my stay, I also spent two days at school. I’m sure most of my future posts will revolve around this topic so I won’t go into too much detail, but...my first impression: the students (or to use Namlish, learners) are well-behaved but very shy. I am definitely looking forward to getting to know my colleagues and learners much better and begin teaching!














Photo: The school's non- permanent classroom.

GREETING. In Namibia, greeting is a very important part of the culture. Even if you have known someone for years and see them on a daily basis, it is expected that you greet them each and every time you see them (at least at the beginning of each day, but as you will see, the more the merrier). In Oshindonga, greeting is very important as well. Because language reflects culture, there is a large variety of questions that can be asked when greeting someone and set procedure (or “rhythm and flow”) for asking them. So, for comic relief, I will translate this (as-long-as-possibly-possible) amalgamation of greeting questions into English:

A: How did you sleep?
B: Good.
A: Really?
B: Yes, good. How did you sleep?
A: Good.
B: Really?
A: Yes.
B: Are you there [as in paying attention]?
A: Yes, I’m there. Are you there?
B: Yes, I’m there.
A: How are your mother and father?
B: They’re fine.
A: How are your siblings?
B: They’re good.
A: How are your neighbors?
B: Good
A: How are your animals?
B: Good
A: Any news?
B: No, no news. Do you have any news?
A: No news.
B: Any problems?
A: No problems. You?
B: No problems.

And, finally, for anyone who is keeping track: IT RAINED! It may have been one of the best moments I've had in the last month: seeing the lightning; hearing the thunder; tasting, feeling, smelling the rain. Nothing says summer better than an awesome (and in this case, I was very much in awe) thunderstorm!